Getting started – Budgeting

While there are several directions to go with a saltwater biotope, we’re focusing on reefkeeping. All guidelines are based on the assumption that you have already decided on keeping corals and reef-friendly livestock. Most of these guidelines will not be useful for FOWLR (fish only with live rock) or other species specific tanks (jellyfish, seahorses) and may be detrimental to your progress with these habitats.

This article will focus mainly on setting cost expectations and budgeting for the equipment you need to get started and the primary considerations around acquiring the appropriate equipment.

Reefkeeping has a relatively high entry cost compared to other hobbies as well as ongoing maintenance costs that will need to be factored in. You can save on the front end by buying used gear but there are some risks to consider. My general recommendation is that if you are just dipping your toes in to see if the hobby is right for you, you should seek used equipment in good condition or full-package deals that include all the equipment you need in addition to a starting livestock package. If you are diving into the deep-end and already in it for the long-run, you should very carefully consider what new equipment to purchase. As reefkeeping is highly dependent on the appropriate equipment, these are perhaps the most important choices you will make.

Budgeting to Fit Your Goals

*Typical average costs of a complete 100 gallon setup with appropriately matched non-premium equipment and substrate
†Assumes 40% discount on tank/stand, 50% for wet goods, 30% for lighting. You may find better/worse deals but this is a pretty safe estimate.

Budget Scaling

The above budgeting breakdown assumes a complete 100 gallon setup. Aquarium equipment and substrate generally scales based on water volume. You can expect a complete 50 gallon setup to come out at roughly half the price. Additional cost savings may be afforded by buying an “all-in-one” aquarium (hereafter AIO) which has some pros and cons which will be broken down in a later article.

Budget Timing

Not all of the above equipment needs to be purchased right away and you can safely add equipment and substrate over time. Let’s break down the immediate needs and the goods that can be purchased over time for a completely new setup.

*Sump, return pump and plumbing can be purchased at any time but will need to be installed together with additional water

New VS. Used

It is perfectly fine to mix new and used equipment as long as the purchases are well considered. Obviously with new equipment you will get the most out of the usable lifetime. With used equipment you can expect a shortened lifetime and cosmetic defects for a significant discount.

Used Equipment Considerations

Saltwater wet-goods (the equipment dealing with water containment, movement and filtration) do typically depreciate significantly, while dry goods less so. The decision to start with used gear will greatly depend on the availability at local fish stores or online listings. Most independent fish stores will have a used section where you can find value-conscious deals for your perusal. It’s extremely important to come prepared with the right considerations:

• Structural Integrity
  • Very important for both stand and tank.
  • Avoid used stands if they’re made of particle boards like MDF. These degrade relatively quickly in wet conditions.
  • Check closely for any signs of water damage. This may look like swelling or rotting on wooden stands, or corrosion on metal stands. Check all mating surfaces and joints for any signs of failing fasteners.
  • You might find some very nicely priced tanks labeled as “leakers” or with small chips or cracks labeled as cosmetic. Avoid these when starting out.
  • The silicon keeping tank surfaces together can degrade over time and typical use. If the tank doesn’t leak now but the silicon looks degraded, you may ask the store to reseal or touch up the tank.

• Equipment Age
  • Most tanks have a useful lifetime of about 10 years.
  • Most return pumps and circulation pumps have a finite lifetime but parts like impellers can be replaced to extend their usefulness. This applies to anything using a pump for water circulation which includes skimmers and filters.
  • Most heaters last about 3-5 years.
  • Light fixture lifetime varies by type. While LEDs have a long lifetime, the fixtures themselves are still subjected to less-than-ideal environments. Moisture and corrosion kills electrical components.

Recurring Costs

Typical monthly cost for a 100 gallon reef tank is going to average around $70 when considering electricity usage, water changes/topoff, food and additives for water chemistry. A new tank will require more work with water chemistry and water changes, so the cost in the first 6 months may be higher. Some of these costs can be offset in the long run with DIY solutions. You can make your own water with the purchase of the required filters and salt mix, and you can make your own food.

Livestock, Food and Additives

It’s difficult to provide an appropriate estimate for budgeting around your livestock, feeding decisions and chemistry needs. General advice is to thoroughly research the livestock you are considering and avoid making impulse purchases on pretty things. Sometimes the most colorful and flashy reef inhabitants are the most expensive as well as the most problematic or difficult to care for. One requirement that you may set a budget around is your cleanup crew of snails and crabs or other beneficial scavengers. I usually spend about $60 every 3 months on cleanup crew, but the initial cost can be expected to be double that.